Tinsukia Jan08-20, 2025
Assam has always held a cherished place in our hearts. From the carefree childhood days in Jorhat to the familiar rhythm of life in Guwahati, where fate led me once again, and the countless journeys to the oil fields—each moment is woven with nostalgia. The echoes of past agitations, the vibrant joy of Bihu, and the mesmerizing bloom of Assam’s flowers and wild landscapes have left an indelible mark on my soul. Time may have moved on, but Assam remains—like a long-lost love, forever special.Yet, as life unfolded, professional commitments took their own course, creating a gap of over three decades since my last visit.
A journey to Assam is always a tapestry of memories. This time was no different, as Runa and I set out to spend twelve unforgettable days there from January 8 to 20, 2025.
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Trip Summary
Our objective was to scout the areas around Tinsukia, namely Dihing Patkai, Maguri Beel, and Dibru Saikhowa. These areas have different habitats and a wide variety of mammals & bird species.
Locations Visited
• Dihing Patkai National Park (lowland rainforests)
• Maguri Beel (wetland & grassland)
• Dibru Saikhowa National Park (mixed semi-evergreen forests, moist mixed deciduous forests, canebrakes and grasslands.)
Group Size
2 (Runa & I); supported by Naba Choudhury & Kamal Ingti (m/s Wildeast)Bird Species observed: Over 175 bird species with almost 27 lifers included the iconic birds of each of the habitats
• Grey Peacock Pheasant
• White-winged Wood Duck
• White-hooded Babbler
• Marsh Babbler
• Jerdon’s Babbler
• Swamp Grass Babbler
• Yellow-breasted bunting
• Black-faced Bunting
• Jerdon’s bushchat
• Black-backed Forktail
• Rusty-bellied Shortwing
• Great Myna
• Nepal Fulvetta
• Black-breasted Parrotbill
• White-spectacled Warbler
• Spotted bush Warbler
• Baikal bush Warbler
• Dark-necked Tailorbird
• Pied Falconet
• Pale-capped Pigeon
• Swamp Francolin
• Baikal Teal
• Ruby-cheeked Sunbird
• etc..
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Trip Arrangements
I outsourced the logistics and arrangements to M/s Wildeast. We went birding with them previously in 2019.
Accommodation
• Dihing-Patkai – VANO Homestay (Sanatan—+916901050729): This is a homestay in the Tribal (Adivasi) village, close to the entry gate (core area). The arrangements are very basic. Rooms are made of local bamboo sticks and cane grass. The beds, too, are made of bamboo with comfortable mattresses. The first night felt out of place, but it was pretty nice thereafter. Toilets are commonly shared by the residents.
• Maguri Beel: Kohua Eco Resort (Juban Dutta—+919954135613). Located at the boat boarding point, this was a very comfortable stay, with a geyser in the toilet. The thing exceptional about Kohua Eco Resort is the food.
Road Conditions
As expected, the city and highway roads are fairly good. Some sections of the national highway are undergoing an upgrade from single carriageway to double. The road condition within the National Park is also as expected. Nothing special to highlight.
Weather Conditions
Being middle of January, it was expected to be fairly cold. However, the first two days were cloudy, with light drizzle, and thereafter, the chill was not as expected.
Other Conditions
The hallmark of the trip was the food. At Vano homestay, it was traditional Adivasi-style cooking with locally grown vegetables. Among them, the dishes made from cane and the many types of salads (chutneys) were fascinating. Tribal cuisine cooked over a wood fire tasted terrific.
Trip Highlights
• Long walks on an average of 7-10 km daily.
• There was a lot of hilly terrain at Dihing, which involved climbing equivalent to 6 to 7 floors each time, especially for the White-winged wood Duck. We did this almost twice every day during our stay at Dihing—Patkai NP.
• Sighting of the Grey pheasant was quite an adventure. One can hear the bird’s screams all across the forest, yet seeing it involved a hill marathon. Running from one hillock to another as the bird moved and kept calling. Had almost given up when the naturalist literally dragged me for the last 200 metres.
• A good population of Hoolock Gibbons were sighted at Dihing Patkai.
• Sighting the Baikal Teal among 200 Common Teal at Maguri was quite a feat. Hats off to Jiban Dutta for the lead.
• Almost a day’s trek across Dibru-Saikhowa NP for one bird – ‘Jerdon’s Bushchat’, was tough yet exciting. It involved a steamer ride across Brahmaputra and an almost 12-km trek through the forest.